4th December: Landing on my Feet

It’s amazing how much things can change in the course of a few days. After having got used to the idea of putting up with Lyudmila for the last few weeks, I have now been unceremoniously thrown out and have moved in with Vanya and his parents in the Фрунзенский (Frunzenskii) region, twenty minutes outside town (traffic permitting).

Let me tell you how it happened. On Friday night, I was meant to be heading off to Moscow for the weekend. Of course, the snow being as horrendous as it was, all the roads were at a standstill so I needed to leave especially early to get to the station on time. So, my train being at 7.30pm, I decided to be safe and leave an hour before. Lyudmila had other ideas; at 6.15 she came into the kitchen, where I was having dinner, and announced, “It’s the 30^th of the month today”. I said, “Yes, I know, but I was going to pay on Monday when I come back from Moscow; I thought that would be ok.” She replied that it was not ok and that I needed to pay right then – which I was in no position to do, not having any cash on me and being about to set off to Moscow.

I calmly explained the situation, but she was having none of it. When I told her that all my friends were paying when they returned, and that most of them paid in little instalments whenever they had the money available, she said that this wasn’t what people normally did and that she didn't care. The girl from Oxford who lived upstairs had already paid, she said; so apparently she did care what other people were doing after all. I explained that I was sorry but it just wouldn't be possible until Monday and she started to claim that she didn't know whether I was staying or moving out – another lie, since we’d had a long conversation which had made it perfectly clear.

Beginning to panic now, I did the only thing I could think of and phoned the university, who got Lyudmila to agree to let me leave my things there until Monday for an extra 400r (£8). It was now already nearly half-past and I needed to get my washing onto the clothes horse before leaving, because who knew what she would do to it if I left it in the bathroom. I was already worried about leaving my other possessions in her hands, particularly as I’d have to give her my keys for the weekend. Finally I grabbed my bags and made my way to the door. I clarified the situation with Lyudmila and gave her a 1000r note, to which she replied moodily, “Do you want change?” The answer seemed fairly obvious.

Getting to the station was a nightmare. The roads were completely gridlocked, and I knew there was no way I’d get to the station on time if I took the trolleybus, so started to fight my way through the snow as fast as I could. The time was so tight I didn't know whether to just accept my losses and give up, but I persisted nonetheless. At 7.29, when I finally had the station in my sights, Beth phoned me to say the train had just left. Now what was I going to do?

The usually painfully slow Russian queuing system moved surprisingly quickly that day and within ten minutes I had a new ticket in my hands – for the next morning, as the next train that evening had been at 11pm. I also managed to get a refund, which seemed somewhat miraculous, but since the ticket was on Lily’s card we’ll have to wait and see if it ever actually gets through (which is unlikely, judging by the problems Joe’s had with a lost £600 at this same station). The next thing I had to do was find somewhere to stay that night, and there was one person I knew to call. Vanya picked up after a few rings and didn't even question my direct requests: Can I stay over tonight? Yes. Can I move in with you? Yes. Maybe I’m finally getting this Russian directness thing.

Taking a marshrutka into town and another one to Судостроительная, where Vanya lives, it took over an hour to fight through the traffic and make it to Vanya’s. As usual, I had to ask for help in finding my stop, and the conductor seemed to warm to my cluelessness and really make an effort to help me get there (apart from the fact she misheard me and I had to get off on the return route). When Vanya phoned to find out where I was, she even took my phone and explained everything to him. Turns out there are quite a lot of nice people here; you just have to be lucky enough to find them.

I managed to avoid eating insane amounts of food at Vanya’s this time, only some kind of marinated cabbage and disgusting salted baby apple, which I couldn't even pretend to enjoy. There was an awkward moment where I was being urged to try a bit of холодец (meat jelly), and “make an exception” to being a vegetarian, “just this once”. We eventually came to the compromise that I would try the jelly bit but not the meat on the bottom – a decision I came to regret. After this, I was subjected to endless amounts of well-meant advice on places to go in Moscow and where to find them. I didn't have the heart to say that we already had a plan of where we wanted to go and that we’d already been to the Ёлки Палки restaurant. Ivan really did just want to help, and seemed to take great pleasure in marking things on the little map he’d dug out for me, despite the fact that I already knew my way around the city centre relatively well.

The next day, I left at 9.30am so there could be no doubt that I would make the train on time, which wasn't until 11.20. As it happened, the roads had been cleared by now and the traffic was back to normal, so I arrived at the station over half-an-hour early. Nonetheless, I was glad I’d left early rather than risking missing a second train.

The journey itself was killer; over four-and-a-half hours in cramped sleeper-train conditions with seats that numb your bum like you've never known before. When the train eventually pulled into the station, I made my way to the metro and was disappointed at the small amount of snow around, considering what I’d seen on the news about the thick Moscow blizzards which had taken over the city over the past few days. I’d been hoping to see and get some pictures of the city in the snow.

I met the others in the Italian buffet next to Red Square and, it being nearly dinner time by now, joined them in having a big meal. As Beth and Sean were going to see The Little Mermaid, Lily and I made a spontaneous decision to try and get tickets to the Bolshoi Theatre. Our hearts sank when we saw the huge queue snaking outside the ticket office, but we were in luck. Not only did we manage to get tickets for that night’s opera, Boris Godunov, but they only cost us 100r each (£2) with our student tickets. Finally I was going to get to see a performance at the Bolshoi, as I’d wanted to do ever since arriving in Russia.

As we made our way back to Red Square through the Christmas market and amongst all the glittering decorations, I felt uplifted at not only having made it to Moscow, but managing to get tickets to the Bolshoi despite all the odds. Red Square itself was beautiful and atmospheric, with the Гум shopping centre lit up by thousands of golden lights, and a pretty outdoor ice rink and Christmas tree dominating the courtyard. There was still some snow on the ground, mostly piled up in huge blocks which made for some great photos. I even began to feel Christmassy, and the end of my time here finally seemed tangible.

The opera itself was a fantastic experience. We were ridiculously underdressed in our puffer coats, jeans and boots, but it didn't matter; we were in the Bolshoi. Everyone else was dressed to the nines, sipping champagne in the chic bars – everything about this place oozed class. Our seats were up in the gods but we managed to get a good enough view by standing up at the edge, which, though tiring for four hours, was worth it to get to see the full spectacle. The scenery and costumes were works of art in themselves, and often the audience would applaud at the beginning of the scene to show their appreciation. At one point a man came on stage riding a live horse.

By the time the opera had finished it was gone 11pm and we were ready to head back to the hostel, which was just ten minutes’ walk away. It was quite a nice place given the price and the location, I have to admit. After making my bed I went into the kitchen and helped myself to a cup of tea. Before I knew it I’d got chatting to a student from Turkey who’d come over to sit some exams but was leaving the next day. Somehow I got roped into being responsible for waking him up at 6.30 the next day; why do things like this always happen to me?

The following morning, I split off from the others for an hour to visit the Kremlin, which I’d missed out on doing the day before. Being a student, I managed to get into the grounds for free, which was great as it was all I had time for. Getting in was another matter, however; it involved standing in a queue to go through a body scanner and having your bag checked for weapons and explosives. After making it through the queue I accidentally tried to get into Putin’s personal residence, only to be told off by a guard who turned up behind me and scared the life out of me. “Don’t be frightened,” he told me soothingly. “Where do you need to go?” This was an unexpected turn of events.

When I’d actually made it into the Kremlin grounds, I was glad I’d made the effort. The Kremlin, which was built by Italian masters from 1485 to 1495, is 275,000 square metres and consists of many impressive buildings and structures. Успенский Собор (Cathedral of the Dormition) was constructed in 1479 as the main church of Moscow and the location of the coronation of the tsars.  There are also two more cathedrals in the Cathedral Square: Благовещенский собор (Cathedral of the Annunciation; 1489); and Архангельский собор (Cathedral of the Archangel Michael 1508), where almost all the Muscovite monarchs from Ivan Kalita to Alexis I of Russia are buried.

As well as this, there are two domestic churches of the Metropolitans and Patriarchs of Moscow: Церковь Двенадцати Апостолов (Church of the Twelve Apostles; 1653) and Церковь Ризоположения (Church of the Deposition of the Virgin's Robe; 1451). However, a particularly interesting structure is the Колокольня Ивана Великого (Ivan the Great Bell Tower; 1508), which is said to mark the exact central point of Moscow. It was extended to its present height by Boris Godunov and, up until the Russian Revolution, was the tallest structure in Moscow, as it was forbidden to build anything taller. During the Napoleonic Invasion, the upper part of the tower was destroyed, but was later rebuilt. The Царь–колокол (Tsar Bell) stands on a pedestal next to the tower and is the largest bell in the world, with a height of 6.14m and weight of 201,924kg. It was broken during casting and has never been rung.

Грановитая Палата (Palace of Facets; 1491) and Теремной дворец (Terem Palace, early 16^th Century), the first home of the royal family, are linked by the Grand Kremlin Palace, which was commissioned by Nicholas I in 1838 and is the largest and most impressive building in the Kremlin. It was built from 1837 to 1849 to emphasise the greatness of Russian aristocracy and was the former Moscow residence of the tsar. The last two buildings in the complex are Арсенал Московского Кремля (the Arsenal), which was built by Peter the Great in 1701, and Оружейная палата (the Armoury) which originated as the royal armoury in 1508 but now serves as a museum.

Whilst in the Kremlin grounds I was lucky enough to come across a few over-keen photographers who were more than happy to take some pictures of me (from many angles and distances), before I felt it was time to go. By this time it was nearly 11.30 and I met back with the others to head over to the souvenir market, which I’d heard great things about. It was a bit of a way out of town on the metro but it was worth the trip, if only for the beautiful colourful architecture surrounding the entrance. The market itself was so enormous it was difficult to know where to look and where to barter to get the best deal. After several hours I’d managed to get all the Christmas presents and souvenirs I needed, and felt quite pleased with myself. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of buying someone something you know they’ll really like.

Despite the disappointing absence of snow, it was freezing outside that day and we were relieved to be able to duck into a cosy café in the market square selling traditional Russian dishes. I’d finished my shopping by this point so split off from the others to try and see a bit more of the city before it was time to leave. I took the metro back to the centre and had a wander around Китайгород (Kitaigorod, a little region of Moscow with several churches. I ended up walking down to the river where I saw some stunning views of the city in the dusk, with the Christmas lights just beginning to be lit.

I made my way back into town via Red Square and Гум, which was as beautifully decorated on the inside as out. In the centre was a huge slide for children, and all the balconies were draped with red velvet curtains, wreaths and lights. The different brands had lined the isles with Christmas trees, each more elegant than the last. Emerging back out into the cold, I made my way to Цум, the famous Russian department store, to take a quick look before meeting Lily for the train. Here, as in Red Square and Гум, they were playing Christmas songs, making me feel nostalgic for my happy English Christmases.

Lily and I met by the Bolshoi and took the metro to the station. The journey passed surprisingly quickly with the help of the programmes Lily had saved on her MacBook, and soon we were back in Yaroslavl and it was time for me to face my landlady. To my relief, she opened the door when I rang the bell, but her mood was no better than when I had left. I told her I would move out the next day, and she said I had to be out by 8am. This was ridiculous and there was no way I could manage it, especially in the snow and in the rush hour, and with everyone at Vanya’s flat at work or university. So, I told her it was impossible, to which she replied that she wasn't going to stay around all day waiting for me (she never leaves the house!) Struggling to hold my tongue, I said she could simply give me the keys, which she refused to do. Only when I said the university had told me I could move out in the afternoon did she finally agree to let me move out at 1pm, straight after class.

The next morning, I got up at 7.30 and packed all my things. It felt strange packing everything up three weeks before I was meant to leave, but I was more than glad to be out of that flat. At 1pm, Vanya met me outside the university and ordered us a taxi. Lyudmila opened the door without a word and I grabbed all my things as fast as humanly possible (accidentally knocking over a ladder in the process). The apology was out of my mouth before I could stop it; she really didn't deserve any niceness from me.

I think Vanya was a bit shocked at the sheer amount of bags I had with me, even though I’d tried to warn him. Unfortunately I haven’t yet grasped the concept of packing light. He was very patient, though, and insisted on carrying two suitcases and a bag, even up the two flights of stairs to his flat. When we got to the flat I tried to make sense of the chaos I’d caused in his little home and he cooked me some pelmeni for lunch. Then we went to a computer shop and the supermarket with a friend of his, and I bought my food for the week, which came to less than £13. Finally, a few weeks of saving some money, being independent and feeling at home!

That afternoon we chatted and listened to music whilst doing our work, and in the evening I decided I’d put in the effort and go back into town for my class. It turned out the journey only took twenty minutes, so I was there in plenty of time. It was worth the trip, too, as it was my favourite class and the other classes that week were all strength/choreography-based. Admittedly, the way back was a bit of an adventure as I took a different marshrutka which stopped in a different place. All I had to go by was the word of another passenger, but she seemed to know what she was talking about and I could see the street sign, so it had to be right. It turned out, the stop was just at the other end of the road, and it didn't take me long to figure out where to go.

Today was my first day of travelling to university by marshrutka, and it went surprisingly well. The marshrutka arrived almost immediately and I got to university over half-an-hour early. As there was a Lingua Café social that evening, I decided to go out for lunch with the others and go back to the university to do some work until the meeting at 5.30. It took me a while to get back to the flat in the rush hour, but I guess it won’t usually take that long if I’m coming home at 1 o’clock. When I got back it was time to leave again, as it’s Vanya’s granddad’s birthday today and the family was gathering at the grandparents’ house to celebrate. I was surprised that I’d been invited, let alone that Vanya had waited behind to take me there on the marshrutka.

When we got there the party had clearly been going on for a while, but we were warmly welcomed. Vanya’s grandparents seemed genuinely pleased to see me again and had put a video on the TV of their trip to Exeter with the orchestra in the ‘90s. Julia was there too, as well as her mother, brother and aunt, and everyone did their best to make me feel at home. They explained which food was vegetarian and Julia showed me old photo albums of her and the rest of the family, including some black and white photos taken during Soviet times.

It was all thoroughly Russian, and Julia asked me if I felt comfortable: I really did. The drinks consisted of red and white wine, and vodka taken in shots, as per custom. The food was split into two courses: the first, salad with mayonnaise, marinated tomatoes, marinated cabbage and apples and tomatoes topped with grilled cheese. The second course was a kind of buckwheat stew with meat for most, and fish for Vanya’s grandfather and myself. After that followed tea and plates of cake, banana and another, unidentifiable fruit. I have to admit, I felt completely comfortable and happy, and despite my Englishness, not even painfully out of place.

As I was leaving, I was met by concerned comments about the amount of clothing I had on (I hadn't put Natasha’s coat on that evening and was only wearing leggings on the bottom) and warmly invited to come again. Before I knew what was happening, Julia and Vanya were out the door on the way to the bus – they’d given up their seats in the car so I could go instead. When they’d dropped me back at the flat, Natasha showed me a scarf I could wear, which she assured me would be warmer than mine, and told me to help me to help myself to anything I wanted. I can’t work out how I've deserved such kindness, but I’m really grateful.